| pushing on them. You have to make sure you get the wheels on the ramp just right: you could go over the front edge or the sides, the ramps may not be geometrically placed according to the approach of the car, you might not go up far enough, and all this is exacerbated by trying to control the acceleration/ascension of the car with a manual transmission/clutch, plus you can't see exactly where the wheels are on the ramp from the driver's seat. Not to mention the approach of most ramps will be too high for the front lip of the car. The ramps that have a long and low ascension don't raise the car up enough. My experience is that the ramps get in the way of my creeper rolling around more than the jack-stands do. BTW, get a creeper. Do you have a level concrete pad for the car when you work on it? Make sure the saddle of the floor-jack is 3 or 3.5 inches in height so you can get it under the car without smackin anything under there or bending the front lip too much.
Make sure your jack-stands have a slot in the contact-point so that they can be used at the factory scissor-jack lift-points on the sides of the car without bending the welded seam. Keep in mind the contact point on the car where you are lifting and how the weight of the car is distributed in relation to the floor-jack or to the jack-stands. The stock front-to-rear weight distribution is about 55%-to-45% so be careful that the front doesn't lean forward too much when you have the front on jack-stands and you're lifting the rear with the floor-jack. You'll understand what I mean when you're trying to get your jack-stands properly placed. LOOK......pages 22 and 23...... [ http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=gi&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=22&design=default&total=25 ]
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